King Ludwig II left quite the legacy. Only 40 years old when he died, he has earned nicknames like the Fairy King and Mad King Ludwig. He was known for being eccentric. He constructed massive palaces in Germany like Neuschwanstein, a beautiful but somewhat strange castle given its opera-themed concept. King Ludwig II also commissioned Herrenchiemsee, a new palace on an island in the Chiemsee, a lake known fondly as the “Bavarian Sea.”
I recently visited the Herrenchiemsee as well as the neighboring island, the Fraueninsel. The islands are almost thought of as a single entity but are staggeringly different. The Fraueninsel is a sleepy, small Bavarian town while the Herrenchiemsee is the site of royal opulence.
From the moment the ferry glides up to the dock at the Herrenchiemsee it is clear something is a little different. The island is heavily wooded and a bit mysterious. Ducks swim along the shore near tall grasses, the mountains in the background. It’s quite picturesque. From atop a hill just beyond the dock, the restaurant Schlosswirtschaft Herrenchiemsee looks down on the newly arrived visitors. Diners are seated outside under umbrellas enjoying a meal and, no doubt, the spectacular view.
The dock area is the location of the visitor center, ticket center and gift shop. Visitors that want to go inside the palace or visit the King Ludwig II museum must buy tickets here. I repeat: you must buy your tickets at the Herrenchiemsee dock. There is no other ticket office. And the walk back from the palace, should you change your mind, is enough to discourage you.
While the walk is a bit far, it’s very easy and pleasant. Horse-drawn carriages are available for a fee if you aren’t feeling very sprightly. But the walk is wooded and quiet. Perfect for reflection.
Until you reach the palace. Then everything suddenly becomes very loud — if only visually.
The New Palace
The new palace, the Herrenchiemsee, is large and lavish. The ornamental details along the exterior of the building are exquisite. The inside shows a similar attention to detail and “more is more” attitude. From the front of the palace a formal garden extends out. In the distance, there’s a clearing in the trees showing the sparkling water of the lake. But from here, that water seems impossibly far away.
The centerpiece of the gardens are the fountains. Like everything else, the fountains are large, impressive and spectacular. You have to walk all the way around in order to appreciate them. The characters depicted on the fountains are strange, whimsical and exaggerated. Human bodies with the heads of frogs, spitting water. Bodies being cast down a mountain, surely to their demise.
On closer inspection, it all may look familiar to you. King Ludwig II took “inspiration” from Versailles. And by “inspiration,” I mean some of the details — the fountains, the ornaments — are near exact replicas. The only significant difference is that on these versions there is a lack of gilding.
There are other things to explore around the palace. A small herd of deer are kept on side in a wooded area, albeit in a fenced-in area. There is also a small outdoor exhibit explaining how they managed to even build the palace. Because, if you remember, it’s on an island in the middle of a lake. Further, the site of the palace on the island isn’t the most easily accessible. The secret? A system of rails allowed for the transportation of building materials. Rather ingenious.
It’s important to remember that, like Neuschwanstein, King Ludwig II died before the completion of the palace. Perhaps this is why the palace complex, although massive, lacks a special character or specific personality. It’s “merely” an impressive palace. And one you’ll want to visit!
King Ludwig II Museum
Twelve rooms within the south wing of the New Palace contain a museum honoring its founder, King Ludwig II. The exhibits cover the monarch’s entire life. His original state robes are on display as well as recreations of furniture from the royal apartment at the Residenz and were destroyed during WWII.
The Augustinian Monastery
Also on the Herrenchiemsee is a monastery that can be toured. The Augustinian Monastery, also referred to as the Old Palace, contains much history. There are four wings to the building with a courtyard in the center. Each wing is from a different addition. The earliest from 1645 and the most recent from 1727.
Today the newest wing houses the Julius Exter Art Gallery. Showcasing nearly 100 works from the Munich modernist/avant-garde artist. More recently, it was between the walls of this monastery that in 1948 the conference was held to prepare the constitution for the Federal Republic of Germany. In a further wing there’s a second gallery of works from local painters.
Unlike the Herrenchiemsee, the Fraueninsel (sometimes also referred to the Frauenchiemsee) is an inhabited island. The 38-acre island is free of cars (although there are some maintenance vehicles). The island is dotted with homes and small businesses owned by some of the locals. There is a church with an active convent that sits right at the dock. There are also a number of restaurants with lovely biergartens across the island.
It’s quite easy to get lost on the island. Narrow streets and alleys between homes and along the waterfront weave across the island. Some are paved while others are merely dirt paths. Flowers seem to be growing everything and it is all quite wonderful. Big, fresh roses greet you at the dock while countless homes have those beautiful overflowing window boxes that you see across Bavaria.
Chiemsee: A True Day Trip
A visit to the Chiemsee is a true day trip. In fact, it’s an ideal day trip from Munich. You can’t rush it, not least because the ferry’s only go at a certain speed and run on a schedule. It likely will take the entire day so relax and enjoy it. It’s worth seeing. The Chiemsee shouldn’t be missed.
To use time wisely, prioritize what you want to see. If palaces aren’t your thing, go to the Fraueninsel first. Likewise, if you want to thoroughly tour the palace make the Herrenchiemsee your first stop.
While Prien am Chiemsee is the most common dock location for those traveling from Munich and points west of the Chiemsee, there are other lakeside towns that the ferries serve: Gstadt, Bernau/Felden, Übersee/Feldwies, Chieming and Seebruck. Ferry tickets are based on how much you’re planning to see. If you’re interested in visiting the other towns plan accordingly so that you can buy the appropriate ticket.
The only access to the two islands is via ferry run by Chiemsee Schifffahrt. From Prien am Chiemsee, if you’re coming by car, there is plenty of parking at the dock.
For those using public transport, Prien am Chiemsee is the closest station using Deutsche Bahn. From Munich, it’s about an hour ride. From the station it is a short, roughly 30 minute walk through the town to reach the ferry. However, a steam engine stands ready to carry you to the dock! Just beside the train station is a separate station, called Prien (Stock), for the steam engine which is operated by Chiemsee Bahn. It’s a brief but very fun ride.
Take note of the steam train’s schedule. Fewer trains run than ferries return to the dock. I ended up making the trek back on foot to Prien am Chiemsee despite having already paid for a roundtrip ride on the steam engine. It was either that or wait roughly 45 minutes. So walk, I did!
All photos are my own.