When Mother Nature threatens snow and ice on the morning you’re supposed to drive more than two hours for a flight to Tokyo, you make adjustments. For my husband and me, that meant booking a room at the TWA Hotel at JFK Airport and driving up the night before.
The TWA Hotel is anything but your average airport business hotel. It’s a fun, vibrant blast from the past, complete with a rooftop pool that’s heated in the winter and even a museum. It’s a destination in itself. As the only on-site hotel at JFK, it made perfect sense to stay there given the weather. But is the TWA Hotel actually worth it?
What to Know About the TWA Hotel at JFK
To understand the hotel of today, you first have to understand the building’s past. The TWA Flight Center opened in 1962, designed by famed architect Eero Saarinen. It served as the terminal for the now-defunct Trans World Airlines (TWA) until 2001. In 2017, the iconic building found new life when it was repurposed into the nostalgic TWA Hotel.
Architecturally, the building is quite striking. Its wing-shaped, thin-shell concrete roof is supported by four Y-shaped supports. Large windows span the building’s curves beneath the soaring roof. It’s the kind of structure they simply don’t build anymore.
Booking & Getting There
The hotel encourages direct bookings.
The biggest selling point of the TWA Hotel is its proximity to the airport. But getting there isn’t quite as seamless as it should be. There is no indoor (or even covered) walkway connecting the hotel to the airport terminals via the AirTrain.
During my visit, I walked uneven, not-so-clean NYC sidewalks past a construction site. It was disappointing but not unmanageable. That said, it’s relatively easy to reach the hotel from the AirTrain.
First Impressions & Atmosphere
Inside the space is cavernous! Red carpeting rolls out in every direction. At the center is The Sunken Lounge, a large communal space and bar overlooking those iconic, soaring windows.
The hotel leans hard into its retro appeal. Vintage cars parked outside appear to be dropping off guests, but they’re actually museum pieces. An old-school analog departures board clicks away in the lobby.
There’s a vintage beauty salon in bright pink with neon lights that simply begs for a selfie in one of the swivel chairs or in the nearby photo booth. Other fun Instagram-worthy spots include a Twister room (yes, with floor-to-ceiling dots) and a museum of classic TWA memorabilia, including uniforms and vintage ads.
The hotel’s massive size and unusual layout can feel overwhelming at first. Self-check-in kiosks are convenient but add to the initial confusion if you’re unfamiliar with the layout.
What Are the Rooms Like at the TWA Hotel?
The rooms offer a vintage feel with modern comfort. Expect mid-century modern furnishings, vintage magazines, gold-accented decor, a bright red Eero Saarinen-designed Womb Chair, and even a rotary phone by the bed.
I booked and received a deluxe king room. While it was a decent size and comfortable, it lacked some privacy. The ground-level room looked directly onto a parking lot, with taxis frequently zooming by. Some common areas, like the Ambassadors Club, also face the wings of the hotel, which can feel exposed when room shades are up. Soundproofing could be improved as well.
Things to Do at the TWA Hotel
If you have time to kill during a layover or ahead of a flight, the hotel is a fun place to explore. Rock music from the 1950s and 1960s plays softly as you wander its winding corridors. But be warned: it can be easy to get lost while wandering through the hotel.
You’ll find tucked-away seating areas furnished with mid-century modern pieces—perfect for relaxing away from the bustle.
The crown jewel is the rooftop infinity pool, observation deck, and pool bar. On my January visit, steam curled above the 95°F water. The curved deck overlooks Runway 4 Left/22 Right, with views extending to Jamaica Bay on clear days. (The pool is heated year-round. From May to November, reservations and a cover charge are required.)
Dining options are limited. The hotel’s primary restaurant is the Paris Café, run by celebrity chef Jean-Georges Vongerichten. The menu features upscale takes on casual fare like fish and chips, pizza, and sesame-crusted salmon. As you might expect for an airport hotel, prices are on the higher side.
For quicker bites, there’s a so-called food hall—but it’s underwhelming, with offerings like soft serve ice cream, packaged snacks, and hot dogs.
For drinks, grab a cocktail at The Sunken Lounge or step outside and board the 1958 Lockheed Constellation, affectionately known as Connie. This converted airplane is now the Connie Cocktail Lounge, where you can sip retro drinks and imagine the golden age of air travel when seats were comfortable and a reasonable size.
Tips for Staying at the TWA Hotel
- Make reservations: For the Paris Café, cocktails, or the pool (especially in warm months), book ahead if your schedule allows. Walk-ins are accepted but if you have your heart set on something, book it!
- Towels included: Don’t worry about packing one—the pool towel is included with your pool access.
- Short on time?: The hotel offers Daytripper rates for four to twelve hour stays, perfect if you don’t need an overnight visit.
FAQS
- Can you walk from JFK to the TWA Hotel? Yes, the TWA Hotel is a short walk from the JFK AirTrain, which connects all airport terminals. While there’s no indoor walkway, it’s a manageable walk from Terminal 5 via the AirTrain and a brief outdoor path.
- How much does the TWA Hotel rooftop pool cost? From May through November, rooftop pool access costs $25 for adults and $10 for children ages 5 to 12. From December through April, hotel guests can use the pool free of charge.
- Is the TWA Hotel inside JFK Airport? The TWA Hotel is located on the grounds of JFK Airport and is directly accessible from JetBlue’s Terminal 5 via the Saarinen Wing. However, it is not physically connected to other terminals—you’ll need to use the AirTrain.
- Do you need reservations for the TWA Hotel pool or restaurants? Yes, reservations are recommended for the rooftop pool (especially in warmer months) and for the Paris Café. Booking ahead ensures availability for both overnight and day guests. Walk-ins are accepted.
- Can you visit the TWA Hotel without booking a room? Yes, the TWA Hotel is open to day visitors. You can explore the museum exhibits, dine or drink in retro-inspired lounges, or purchase a Daytripper pass for a short stay without an overnight booking.
Is It Worth It for a Layover or Early Flight?
The TWA Hotel delivers on its promise of a nostalgic experience conveniently located near JFK Airport. Whether it is worth it depends largely on your budget.
For my husband and me, it was absolutely worth it. Could we have stayed at a cheaper hotel nearby, one where we have loyalty status? Sure. But this overnight stay made vacation start early. We parked the car at the airport and never looked back (no rush-hour NYC traffic to deal with!). It wasn’t cheap, but with snow in the forecast and Tokyo on the horizon, the convenience and experience were worth every penny.
For travelers with a layover or early flight, the TWA Hotel offers a stylish, comfortable escape from the chaos of the terminal. And even if you’re not flying, it makes for a fun day trip. Architecture buffs, design lovers, and nostalgia seekers will find plenty to enjoy at this unique destination hotel.
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All opinions and photos are my own. This post contains an affiliate link.